Creating a Beautiful Green Lawn

You can create a lush, green healthy lawn that adds beauty and value to your home.  Fertilizing, weed control, watering, and mowing are the keys to fostering the vigorous development of the turf grass you desire.  See additional TLC Information Sheet “Types of Lawn Grass & Installing a Lawn by Seed”.

Fertilizing

Begin fertilizing in spring for a healthy lawn this year. First application should be in early April for Central Oklahoma. Repeat every 4-8 weeks during the growing season. The growing season for Bermuda lawns is April thru August, while for fescue lawns it is March thru May and September thru October. Do not fertilize fescue lawns during the hot months of June thru August.

Use a complete fertilizer such as TLC Premium Lawn Food with an analysis of 21-3-7 with 4% iron and 13% sulfur. It provides both a quick long-lasting greening and a slow release feeding. The sulfur aids in pH control in our often alkaline soils. We also have Milorganite Organic Fertilizer for our organic gardeners. Apply when the lawn is dry, then water thoroughly.

Pre-Emergent Weed Control

Pre-emergent weed control is the most effective way to have a weed-free lawn. Pre-emergent herbicides control weeds by forming a barrier that prevents the seed from germinating.  Pre-emergent becomes more effective with each application. We recommend two pre-emergent treatments each year to prevent both broadleaf and grassy weeds in existing lawns. Apply Sure Green Crabgrass & Annual Bluegrass Preventer Plus Lawn Food between February 1 and March 15 to control spring weeds. Make a second application between August 15 and September 15 to control fall weeds. This product can be applied to both bermuda and fescue lawns; however, remember do not apply pre-emergent herbicides to newly planted lawns or if you plan to overseed.  For the organic gardener, apply Granulated Corn Gluten as a weed suppressant. Always water the lawn very well after applying pre-emergent.

Post-Emergent Weed Control

Post-emergent weed control kills weeds that are visible, but does not prevent weed seed from germinating. There are many products available to kill existing broadleaf and grassy weeds. The best recommendation is dependent on several factors, including type of weed, lawn variety, and weather conditions.   Please bring in a sample of the weed and we will recommend the best solution.

Recommended Products:

• Gordon’s Speed Zone
• Image All-In-One
• Scott’s Weed and Feed
• Bio Advanced Lawn Weed and Crabgrass Killer
• Ortho Weed Clear

Insect Control

Many kinds of insects or insect-like pests harbor in lawns. Most are more of a nuisance rather than actually causing serious damage to lawns. Occasionally, populations of grubs, armyworms, sod webworms, aphids, leafhoppers, and pillbugs become large enough to require control.

If you have noticed a lot of beetles around your trees and shrubs during June, chances are that your lawn has grubs. Grubs are the larvae stage of Japanese beetles. It is important to control grubs at this early stage — they will do the most damage to your lawn now by feeding upon your lawn’s root systems and killing it. Best control is achieved by applying Bio Advanced Season Long Grub Control in mid-August to September.

If ants, fleas, ticks, or grasshoppers become a problem apply Bio Advanced Complete Insect Control. If you aren’t sure these little critters are hiding out in your lawn, please bring in a sample of the problem area for our experts to diagnose a solution to your lawn‘s condition. All insecticide products should be watered in after application.

Watering Your Lawn

Watering is one of the most often misunderstood aspects of turfgrass culture. Often, watering on turf areas is too frequent and too light. Frequent, shallow watering encourages shallow rooting, soil compaction, thatch accumulation, and weed seed germination.

Ideally, turf should not be irrigated on a regular schedule but on one that is determined by need. An irrigation program cannot be developed to fit every location due to

1. dissimilar water holding capacities of different soil types
2. weekly fluctuations in temperature, humidity, wind, and precipitation
3. the influence of management practices, such as mowing and fertilization on turfgrass water consumption.

Sandy coarse-textured soils absorb water faster but retain less water than fine-textured soils like loams and clays. Thus, it takes less water to moisten sandy soil to a 6-inch depth than to moisten a clay soil to the same depth. This means more frequent applications of less water are required for turfgrasses growing on sandy soils.

The ideal time to water is when turfgrasses show the first visual symptoms of water need or wilt, characterized by “foot printing” and a blue-gray appearance. When turfgrasses experience moisture stress, their leaves begin to roll or fold and wilt. Enough water should be applied in one application to wet the soil to a 6-inch depth. This can be checked by probing the soil. After watering a few times you should develop a feel for the amount of time and water required for deep watering. If the area begins to puddle and run-off is occurring, stop irrigating and allow the water to soak into the soil.

It may be necessary to repeat this cycle several times before proper irrigation is complete. Early morning is an ideal time to irrigate. New seed, sod, and plugs require frequent light watering. Established lawns need less frequent but deep watering to develop deep root systems.  Including rainfall, these minimum amounts promote the best growth and make management of your lawn easier.

Spring & Fall – 1 inch per week
Summer – 2 inches per week
Winter – 1/2 inch per week